I’m a Zimbabwean and am embarrassed to say had never visited Gonarezhou previously. Fortunately, it was the first game park in Zimbabwe on our itinerary as we departed on a five week journey to South Luangwa in Zambia. Our group consisted of four vehicles – two of which pulled Bush Lapa trailers – a Kewer and a Baobab 3i. As new owners of a Baobab 3i 4 x 4 trailer the learning curve was steep from day one. Lists were prepared, articles read, lists re-done and manuals compiled (I kid you not!).

Gonarezhou is a vast and untamed Park bordering on Mozambique and situated in the south-eastern corner of Zimbabwe. The Shona word “Gonarezhou” means “place of elephants.” It is the second-largest national park in Zimbabwe, famous for its abundant elephant population and diverse wildlife.

Getting to Gonarezhou

There are several entry points into the park. We opted to drive through Mozambique and enter Zimbabwe via the Sango Border Post. I wasn’t convinced this was the cleverest plan considering our infancy in the 4×4 camping world. However, spending two nights at Punda Maria ensured that we had our “ducks in a row”.

We were up, packed and out the campsite by 6 a.m and arrived at the South African border post with time to spare. The area was immaculate, and the officials exceptionally friendly—a sharp contrast to the Mozambique side, where rundown buildings and swirling dust dominated the landscape.

Fortunately, the border process was quick, and we were soon back on the road and heading to the Limpopo River. One of the advantages of going in September is that the river is low so the crossing was easy. Even the little surge out the river bed on the other side was accomplished with ease. Then the hard work and challenges started. The road was narrow and windy with low overhanging trees that threatened to take out the solar panels on the trailers. We moved along steadily but at a very slow speed. Finally, after much dust and many villages we arrived at the border post of Chiqualaquala / Sango. A few extra dollars ensured a safe passage through, and we ventured on. The dryness of the area was very evident and the road to Gonarezhou manageable albeit very slow.

Campsites

With only three nights allocated to Gonarezhou we had decided to spend one night at Mabalauta, one night at Fishans and one night at Benji Wier before exiting the park. Way too short but at least we could get a feel for the park.

Mabalauta

We arrived in Mabalauta in the late afternoon at a beautiful, large, shady camp site. 160 km had taken 9 long hours. Situated on the Mwenezi River, Mabalauta is one of the developed camps in Gonarezhou National Park. Facilities include ablutions, a braai, tap, cement table and chairs. The camp is wild so care has to be taken when strolling to the ablutions after dark.

Fishans

5 hours and 150 km later we arrived at Fishans Camping Spot. The ele’s were a little on the skittish side but the scenery and veld breathtaking. We breakfasted first at the Makokwani Picnic spot overlooking the Mwenezi River. The drive continued to be uneventful on decent roads until one of our vehicles lost a couple of grocery boxes!! It helps to close the doors after a quick snack stop.

The campsite is tucked away under large trees with a beautiful view of the river. The site has a braai area and a very clean long drop but no other facilities. For our sundowner in the evening we crossed the Fishans Causeway and enjoyed an ice cold lager at the base of the Chilojo Cliffs overlooking the Runde River Valley. It took around 30 minutes to reach there from Fishans. As the sun sets, the cliffs are bathed in a warm orange glow, bringing a warm ambiance to the veld.

Bhenji Wier

Bhenji Wier features an observation deck with sweeping views over the veld, along with a braai area and a long-drop toilet that also offers an amazing view!

We exited the park at Chipinda Pools via the Rundi gorge. A beautiful drive along a challenging track.

How to Book Gonarezhou

Visit the Gonarezhou website where you will find contact information. Alternatively deal through a private operator.